Stylists and Wardrobe Working Together
Leading on from my last post about the difference between styling and wardrobe, I thought I should next talk about how I think its beneficial to have both working together on the lead up to a project
In my experience, the most successful tours where wardrobe is concerned have been where the stylists have included the wardrobe team from the very beginning. One example - I make sure to ask stylists to let designers know to use chunky zips for stage. Yes, your beautifully stitched in tiny couture zips look amazing on the runway! Will it survive a quick change? As a Star Dresser you usually don’t have time to delicately zip. The artist is in and out in 30 seconds! And if the designer doesn’t make costumes with chunky zips, we’re going to put them in. And we’ll probably have five minutes to get it stage ready, so its not going to be done to the high standards we wish we had the time for!
Obviously that isn’t always possible for the designers to do, and you will need the wardrobe team to alter and rig for stage. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve had to sew people into things in a quick change due to a couture zip breaking off as I’m zipping people in! And it’s always when the look arrives last minute. I think about all these things when agreeing our timelines with the stylist, although you never have enough time…
Another example is speaking with the stylist about fabric choices. Is the fabric danceable, stage-wearable, tourable? We need the designers to be aware that what works on a catwalk doesn’t always work for stage. If it’s come straight from Fashion Week, we are usually going to need to turn couture into costume. If it's a new design though, quite often these considerations can be taken with the original construction and materials. After all, the designer wants a maximum return on their investment towards your artist. They want it worn at every city on tour where possible.
The flip side is that Wardrobe needs to remember there can often be reasons for the stylist not getting things to you on time. Maybe the artist delayed creative until the very last moment due to business considerations, which has the knock on effect of designers not getting things to you by the deadline. Or, more commonly, the designers not adhering to the deadline! Or a new runway look that the artist is desperate to wear before anybody else. Or its a piece that the designer is only lending to your artist (although this is rare at the top level of touring).
When the inevitable happens and everything comes in late from designers (and we’re all trying to get the show on within 48 hours!), if both parts work together they help each other get to where they both need to be. The costume looks great on stage AND its easily maintainable. Too often both sides feels like the other is deliberately trying to sabotage you - I know because I’ve felt it! When this happens, it’s usually as one part are just concentrating on their own thing, not thinking about the potential effects this can have for the other side.
When you all have the common goal in mind, you get the best result for the artist.
And isn’t that why we all do it?